Ground cover
This can be:
- temporary, i.e., planted in the autumn and destroyed in the summer: costly unless the plant can re-seed itself (often used in Napa & Sonoma with field mustard – produces classic ‘golden vineyard’ look by early spring) due to a short life-cycle or strip-tillage, where some of the plants are allowed to grow to seed.
- Permanent: planting permanent cover crop or allowing natural vegetation to grow.
Cover crop
Best sown in the autumn after careful soil preparation at high seed rates. Must stop using residual herbicides well before. The criteria for selecting cover crop:
- Quick to establish
- Adapted to soil and climatic conditions (particularly drought in some areas)
- Correct level of vigour
- Hard wearing
- Provides good cover
- Leguminous? E.g. red fescue and white dwarf clover
- Low growth habit
- Can re-seed itself
- Secondary crop?
Is often the case that mixtures of crops are used.
Natural vegetation
This is well-suited to the conditions, cheap and leads to greater biodiversity, but can be difficult to manage and harbour pests.
It is important to manage cover crop properly:
- Mow very closely before budburst (frost)
- Mow again a couple of weeks before flowering to boost vigour
- Allow to grow at veraison
- Alternate row mowing will allow better biodiversity
Note that some cover crops will not survive close mowing. As crops get more mature, their biomass increases and they become woodier, thus taking longer to break down when mown or incorporated into the soil.
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Generally regarded as a quality method, and gaining in popularity for low density highly mechanised vineyards. Is it suitable under cold-climate conditions?
Good compromise could be to apply alternate rows of cover crop / cultivation, changing around every few years.