Grafting
Grapevines are grafted to:
- Confer resistance to Phylloxera or nematodes
- Match the plant roots to soil conditions
- Influence scion vigour
- Change varieties in an established vineyard (top-grafting)<.li>
Field grafting
This is the traditional practice where the rootstocks are planted in the vineyard first, then top grafted
Bench grafting
This is carried out indoors during the late winter/early spring;
- Prior to grafting, the cuttings are stored in damp sawdust, and then soaked for 24 – 48 hours before the operation to make them less brittle.
- Cut rootstocks to 24 – 36 cm lengths with the lower cut immediately below a node
- Remove all buds, and align them in order of the diameter of the top
- Scions cut to one-node lengths with 2 cm above the node and 5 – 6 cm below.
- Align them above the rootstocks according to the diameter of the base
- Graft, either by hand (whip technique), or by machine (omega technique)
- Dip top in molten paraffin wax up to just below graft union
- Store in crates, containing sand or sawdust.
- Maintain humidity at 90% (but with good drainage) and temperature between 21 - 29ºC for 3 – 5 weeks.
- Once callusing is complete, remove grafted cuttings and trim off any roots from the scion or shoots from the rootstock.
- Re-dip in molten paraffin wax
- Transfer to cold store (1 - 4ºC) or plant into pots and keep at 18 - 21ºC for 7 – 10 days then move to temperate greenhouse.
Grafted rooted cuttings are either sold as bare cuttings that have spent one season in a vine nursery after grafting, or as potted plants that have been ‘forced’ in a greenhouse, and so can be planted out within 10 months of grafting.
Top-grafting
These techniques can be used to change cultivars in an established vineyard.
Cleft grafting
Usually carried out on vines less than 15 years old with trunk diameters 2 – 6 cm.
- Just before budburst, saw trunk 3 cm above graft union
- Split the trunk to a depth of 3 – 5 cm across its widest point.
- Insert two wedge-shaped two-bud scions into the slit, ensuring that the cambium layers match
- Tie up tightly with raffia
- Cover the graft, either with soil, or with a rigid plastic sleeve filled with sand, and keep covered until callusing is complete (1 season)
- Keep graft well-watered, but allow excess water to drain away
- Tie shoots carefully to supporting stake
Cleft grafting can have a good success rate (60 % minimum), with 2/3 of normal harvest expected the following year.
Bud grafting
This is now more common, as it has a higher success rate. Both methods require scion cuttings to be collected in the winter and stored at 1 – 4ºC, 90% humidity.
The two methods most commonly used are chip-budding and T-budding. These two methods can be used in succession in order to ensure success. Note that aftercare of plants is very important:
- Protect from drought stress and weed competition
- Remove all suckers
- Support rapidly-growing (tender) new shoots effectively
Bud grafting works well in warm climates, but is difficult to achieve success with in the UK.