Grafting

Grapevines are grafted to:

  • Confer resistance to Phylloxera or nematodes
  • Match the plant roots to soil conditions
  • Influence scion vigour
  • Change varieties in an established vineyard (top-grafting)<.li>

Field grafting

This is the traditional practice where the rootstocks are planted in the vineyard first, then top grafted

Bench grafting

This is carried out indoors during the late winter/early spring;

  • Prior to grafting, the cuttings are stored in damp sawdust, and then soaked for 24 – 48 hours before the operation to make them less brittle.
  • Cut rootstocks to 24 – 36 cm lengths with the lower cut immediately below a node
  • Remove all buds, and align them in order of the diameter of the top
  • Scions cut to one-node lengths with 2 cm above the node and 5 – 6 cm below.
  • Align them above the rootstocks according to the diameter of the base
  • Graft, either by hand (whip technique), or by machine (omega technique)
  • Dip top in molten paraffin wax up to just below graft union
  • Store in crates, containing sand or sawdust.
  • Maintain humidity at 90% (but with good drainage) and temperature between 21 - 29ºC for 3 – 5 weeks.
  • Once callusing is complete, remove grafted cuttings and trim off any roots from the scion or shoots from the rootstock.
  • Re-dip in molten paraffin wax
  • Transfer to cold store (1 - 4ºC) or plant into pots and keep at 18 - 21ºC for 7 – 10 days then move to temperate greenhouse.

Grafted rooted cuttings are either sold as bare cuttings that have spent one season in a vine nursery after grafting, or as potted plants that have been ‘forced’ in a greenhouse, and so can be planted out within 10 months of grafting.

Top-grafting

These techniques can be used to change cultivars in an established vineyard.

Cleft grafting

Usually carried out on vines less than 15 years old with trunk diameters 2 – 6 cm.

  • Just before budburst, saw trunk 3 cm above graft union
  • Split the trunk to a depth of 3 – 5 cm across its widest point.
  • Insert two wedge-shaped two-bud scions into the slit, ensuring that the cambium layers match
  • Tie up tightly with raffia
  • Cover the graft, either with soil, or with a rigid plastic sleeve filled with sand, and keep covered until callusing is complete (1 season)
  • Keep graft well-watered, but allow excess water to drain away
  • Tie shoots carefully to supporting stake

Cleft grafting can have a good success rate (60 % minimum), with 2/3 of normal harvest expected the following year.

Bud grafting

This is now more common, as it has a higher success rate. Both methods require scion cuttings to be collected in the winter and stored at 1 – 4ºC, 90% humidity.
The two methods most commonly used are chip-budding and T-budding. These two methods can be used in succession in order to ensure success. Note that aftercare of plants is very important:

  • Protect from drought stress and weed competition
  • Remove all suckers
  • Support rapidly-growing (tender) new shoots effectively

Bud grafting works well in warm climates, but is difficult to achieve success with in the UK.